The Christmas Nativity in Naples

Travelling in Italy during the Christmas season offers the chance to discover many of the country’s captivating celebrations. In Italy the nativity scene, or il presepe in Italian, is the most popular and traditional religious decoration.

While the presepe is a fixture of Christmas celebrations across Italy, in Naples it is a distinctive part of Neapolitan culture and traditions.

Beginning in the 1700s, the presepe became popular among the aristocracy, and over time the humble manger scene featuring the Holy Family was transformed into lively displays depicting Christ’s birth in an idealized Neapolitan country setting complete with shepherds, peasants and typical rural scenes.

By the 19th century, the finely crafted figurines and elaborate presepi were elevated to an art form as the most prominent Neapolitan sculptors of the day created pieces for royalty and the city’s wealthy elite.

Centuries of tradition have been carefully passed on in the artisan workshops that line the Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples’s Spaccanapoli neighbourhood. Walking along the narrow streets in December you will find shops filled with colourful figurines and traditional workshops where you can watch artisans busy at work. This is the place to shop for authentic and traditional pieces for your presepe especially around Via San Gregorio Armeno for those looking for a memorable keepsake that can be enjoyed every Christmas.

The typical Neapolitan presepe features more than just the Holy Family and original members of the Biblical scene. The artisans along Via San Gregorio Armeno also maker unconventional presepe figurines of popular public figures from musical icons such as Luciano Pavarotti and Michael Jackson to contemporary politicians from Berlusconi to Barack Obama.

The Christmas season in Naples is a magical time of year. However, some of the city’s best presepi are on display throughout the year, allowing you to experience these Christmas treasures no matter when you visit. The Certosa di San Martino houses one of the city’s most impressive public collections of Neapolitan presepi, from the masterpiece created by Michele Cucinello in the 18th century to many fine displays of individual figurines.

Along the waterfront of Naples visit the chapel in the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) where you’ll find one of the finest presepe from the 18th century with figures carved by well-known Neapolitan sculptors of the time. Outside of Naples at the splendid Reggia di Caserta (Royal Palace of Caserta), you can admire the presepe royale (royal nativity scene), which is impressive in both its grand scale and minute details.