Walking lovers' lane in the Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre are amazing. Five towns built along Italy's Ligurian coast, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore are a welcome holiday escape from a world ruled by the automobile. The area is well serviced by a train system, and by boat, and cars are restricted. The best way to enjoy Cinque Terre is to walk, perhaps along the Lovers' Way, or into the area's national park.

The low route of the Cinque Terre, which passes directly through these picturesque towns, takes about 5 hours in all but can be broached in various segments. The more challenging segment from Corniglia to Vernazza balances terraced vineyards, olive groves and woodland on one side with cliff views on the other. The Manarola to Corniglia stretch is a lighter option but just as scenic. Alternatively, the high route, extending from Levanto to Portovenere, is a more serious walk of 12 hours and skirts the 5 characteristic towns from above.

Each of the Cinque Terre has its own flavour. Brightly coloured houses are built on such steep terrain that one wonders how they did it and do it still. And backyard agriculture remains the area's second biggest economy. Modern construction is rare. The Cinque Terre seaside has also been declared a protected Italian marine park making its waters inviting snorkelling and scuba-diving locales.

The islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto lie to the south of Cinque Terre, off the coast from Portovenere. Palmaria, the largest, offers great swimming spots and Tino is best visited during local celebrations of Saint Venere, as the island was the hermitage home of this patron saint. The ruins of a monastery still remain on the island and a lighthouse marks its high point.

Portovenere, the mainland town, was reportedly the site of a temple to Venus in the first century B.C. The Goddess of Love has left her indelible mark. This select strip of Liguria, the Cinque Terre, Portovenere and its archipelago, is made for romantics. From the town's Arpaia grotto, English romantic poet Lord Byron was inspired to dive into the water and swim across the gulf. He wanted to meet fellow romantic, Shelley, in a nearby Levante town.

A drier but no less amorous option is to build up an appetite as the sun sets along the Riomaggiore to Manarola stroll, the names of couples and lovers etched into the landscape of this Lovers' Walk. Choose one of the cliff-side bars or restaurants for a panoramic, candlelit dinner, and toast with local wine to an Italian holiday that endures.