Arcumeggia, a Painter’s Village

Not far from Luino, Laveno and Varese, and a stone’s throw from Lake Maggiore, we find the picturesque mountain town of Arcumeggia. The name derives from Arx media (a rock in the middle of two valleys: Valcuvia and Valtravaglia).

This small community is well known as the first Painted Village of Italy. It all started in 1956 when the Province of Varese invited well-known painters to come to the quiet village and paint frescoes on the walls of the rural houses.

In 1957 a casa del pittore (painter’s house) was built to host artists while they worked to paint the town. A whole host of artists including Francesco Menci, Cristoforo De Amicis, Umberto Faini, Carmelo Nino Trovato and Aligi Sassu worked on the project and the house where they stayed today is a museum where you can learn about the artists and their work.

Don’t miss visiting San Ambrogio’s church courtyard where there are 14 different frescoes. Then head for the village to admire different depictions of everyday life, popular saints and well-known religious events. Local themes are prevalent, like the portrayal of the Polenta eaters (local dish made of yellow cornmeal) or the depiction of a goats’ head (the symbol of the town). In addition to the original frescoes, the Via degli Allievi (student’s lane) showcases new work. Students of several art academies take part in the annual "Corsi Estivi Internazionali di Affresco" (International Summer Fresco Courses) organized in Arcumeggia by the Accademia di Brera.

Apart from the frescoes, you can also enjoy great views and local cooking at the small family-run trattorias. The town is also close to mountains such as Monte Nudo (1235 m) and Monte della Colonna (1203 m) making it an ideal starting point for nature walks and mountain biking trips. Or visit Villa Della Porta Bozzolo, an opulent private mansion dating from the 17th century that is open to the public thanks to the FAI (Italian Environment Fund).

Arcumeggia, can be found on provincial road 7, which links Casalzuigno to Porto Valtravaglia. It is 25km from Varese along the SS394 or 85km from Milan. Follow the A8 motorway to the Sesto Calende toll booth, then following the SS629 and SS394.