The Sacra di San Michele, Turin

The Abbey of Sacra di San Michele, Sant'Ambrogio di Torino, just outside Turin, dominates the Val di Susa in Piedmont.
Sitting high on top of Monte Pirchiriano, which means ‘mountain of the pigs’, it is one of the largest religious complexes in Europe, with its construction and subsequent enlargements carried out over the last 1000 years, since 983.

The Romanesque buildings stare menacingly down over the plains of Turin and the entrance to the Val di Susa. According to legend, Hugo de Montboissier was advised by angels that the mountain would be a superb place for an abbey which was built and entrusted to five Benedictine monks.

It was created as a beacon for pilgrims and soon became a spiritual centre and crossroads for cultural and religious exchange. For 600 years it was a place of Benedictine traditions until Royal politics and economic difficulties plunged the Abbey into abandonment for over two centuries.

Today it is home to the Rosminian Fathers, a religious community, founded by Antonio Rosmini, who were entrusted with the Abbey in 1836 by King Carlo Alberto. During the same period, corpses belonging to 24 members of the Royal Family of Savoy were transferred from Turin Cathedral to the Abbey and buried in heavy stone sarcophaguses in the basilica.

As you approach the Sacra di San Michele up the winding road from Sant’Ambrogio, the views over the valley below and beyond to Turin are stunning. The final kilometre hike from the car park leads you through picturesque woods until you reach a small plateau where the whole complex comes into view. Further up the steep path the ticket office beckons, however the mere €4.00 is worth every cent.

The entrance to the church is an amazing flight of 200 odd steps called the ‘Scalone dei Morti’, or the 'Staircase of the Dead', named after the monk's tombs which once lined the walls. From the top of this staircase, the arch of daylight attracts your eyes as you continue to climb to the strangely named but beautiful marble twelfth century, 'Porta dello Zodiaco'. Created by the sculptor Nicolò, it is decorated with fine columns featuring Cain and Able, Samson and Delilah, amongst others.

To get to the actual church there are even more steps to climb, this time through four imposing green stone arches. From here the views of the plain of Turin only get better. Inside the church there is a nave and two aisles with a central cross vault, reconstructed and completed in 1937 following the last restorations. The heavy stone sarcophaguses, mentioned earlier, are positioned around the perimeter whilst famous frescoes, paintings and a triptych by Defendente Ferrari adorn the walls.

Via the Monk's door, you can access the Terrace from where you can look down on the ruins of the monastery and the mystical, unfinished bell tower named after the beautiful Alda who, legend has it, twice threw herself from the top of the tower. On the first occassion, whilst trying to escape from a group of soldiers of fortune, she prayed before throwing herself from the tower and landed unhurt. Believing this to be the result of divine intervention, she decided to repeat her dive but this time she fell to her death on the rocks below.

An astonishing place, an incredible location in Piedmont and an unforgettable experience.

How to Get There
By car: From Turin, A32 Torino- Frejus Autostrada, exit: Avigliana, then follow signs for Laghi and Sacra di San Michele.

Opening Hours
From October 16 to March 15, Tuesday to Saturday: 09.30 - 12.30; 14.30 - 17.00; on Sundays and public holidays: 09.30 - 12.00; 14.40 - 17.00.
From March 16 to October 15, Tuesday to Saturday: 09.30 - 12.30; 14.30 - 18.00; on Sundays and public holidays: 09.30 - 12.00; 14.40 - 18.30.
Closed: Mondays, apart from holiday Mondays. Last entrance is 30 minutes before closing time.

Entrance tickets: €4,00 or € 3,00 for 6 to 14 year olds and over 65's.