Siena's crazy horse race, the Palio

No-one wants to be left out. The crowd shuffles left to right, jostling for viewable positions. Then the entrance path closes and the mass of people is cordoned inside Siena's main town square. They eye other spectators who look back at them from the encircling balconies and laneways on the other side of the racing path. It's the day of the Palio and the scent of competition breathes energy and frisson into the piazza. It will be a few hours yet before the horses arrive and the starting rituals of the race can drag seemingly endlessly on.

The Palio is a crazy Italian horse race run in the shell-shaped Piazza del Campo of Siena. And Siena's inhabitants go crazy for the race, if tourists remain a little bewildered. It's not just the race, it's what it represents.

Dating back to the 1600s, 17 historical quarters of the city, contrade, face off to be amongst 10 competitors on the day. A traditional Italian feast and parade precedes the race, with medieval costumes, flag twirling and sword wielding mounted police.

The rivalry between the contrade is so great that couples coming from different quarters often choose to separate while the preparations are underway. Considering bribery and doping are fair game in this competition, keeping the appropriate distance is the safest option. Indeed, in the three days between horse selection and the race, jockeys will often sleep with their horse to protect it from danger.

Held on the 2nd of July, the Feast of the Visitation, and 16th August, the Feast of the Assumption, the race itself is three laps bareback around the piazza and, even as they approach the starting line, jockeys are wheeling and dealing to buy a better position. In the end, a horse can win without its rider, but has to have its head ornaments still in place. The last over the line is considered the horse that came second.

On victory and defeat, the eruptive celebrations and commiserations sweep all aside. The shame of defeat will linger until the following year, and the honour of victory is divine. In a euphoric wave the winner's supporters flock to the town cathedral to thank God for their win. Even the horse is led into the church in tribute.